Slow-paced medieval Monfort L’Amaury, 45 minutes from Paris, is home to some remarkable Renaissance stained-glass windows in the town church, 16th-century cobblestone paving, a Ravel festival in October and this superb private home built under Henry IV at the beginning of the 17th century. The renovation is recent and thorough – a lift, excellent soundproofing – and in good taste: old rafters reign in some bedrooms, the expose beamed ceiling in the breakfast room is splendid and skilful carpentry is evident in the light oak used in the panelling, headboards and cupboards that warm the pure white walls and simple elegant bedspreads. Ground-floor rooms have private terraces looking out on the lawn and the garden, have summer chairs for relaxing under the huge linden trees. Each room bears the name of a tree or plant in the nearby Rambouillet forest and a framed ode to the fern, beech or rhododendron has been created by an artist. There is a big accent on a full breakfast here which includes ham, eggs and cheese. A nice stop before heading for Paris or the airports.